by Chuck Baker
Infrared (IR) photographic film captures light beyond our visible spectrum creating unique and often surreal images. Here’s a guide on how to use it effectively. I use IR film for it’s contrast characteristics without the usual filters. IR film begs for experimentation!
1. Choosing the Right Film
- Black and White Infrared Film: More readily available. Produces high contrast images with dramatic skies and white foliage (the “Wood Effect”). Examples include Rollei Infrared 400, Film Washi “Z” (near-infrared) and Ilford SFX 200 (near-infrared).
- Color Infrared Film: Also known as false-color infrared film. Renders infrared light as red, green as blue, and blue as green. Kodak Aerochrome was a popular option but is discontinued; however, some alternatives exist or expired rolls can be found.
- Film Sensitivity: Infrared films are also sensitive to visible and sometimes UV light.
2. Camera Considerations
- Manual Camera: Ideal, as some cameras with auto-advance features use infrared LEDs that can fog the film.
- Non-DX Coding: Avoid cameras that use LED sensors to read the DX code on the film canister, as these can cause light leaks.
- Lens with Infrared Focus Mark: Some older lenses have a red dot or “R” marking to help compensate for the infrared focus shift.
3. Filters are Essential for IR Effects…But Not Necessary to use this Film
- Infrared-Passing Filter: This dark red or opaque filter blocks most or all visible light, allowing only infrared light to reach the film. Common types include R72 (720nm), which blocks all visible light below 720nm.
- Color Filters (for Color IR): Yellow or orange filters are often used with color infrared film to manage the color balance and enhance the infrared effect.
- Red Filter: As you may know, a red filter such as a 25A, increases contrast of panchromatic film which affects, for instance, a blue sky turning it darker. With Infrared film, the affect becomes a much darker and sometimes black sky. I highly suggest experimenting with other filters intended for panchromatic films. You will not be disappointed.
- No Filter: Infrared film can be used without any filter. It is a higher-contrast film and depending on the developer being used will produce a medium to coarse grain negative.
4. Loading and Unloading Film
- Dark or Subdued Light: Load and unload the film in near darkness as it’s very sensitive to light.
- Light-Tight Canister: Keep the film in its original light-tight canister when not in the camera.
- Camera Window: If your camera has a (red) window on the back, cover it with black tape to prevent potential light leaks.
5. Shooting Techniques
- Bright Sunlight: Infrared light is strongest in direct sunlight, especially during midday or early afternoon. Overcast or shady conditions will yield poor results.
- Exposure:
- Metering: Since you’re using a dark filter, your camera’s light meter will likely not function correctly. Consult the film’s datasheet and the filter’s information for suggested exposure adjustments (filter factor).
- Bracketing: Due to the unpredictable nature of infrared light and film response, it’s wise to bracket your shots (shoot underexposed, normally exposed, and overexposed frames).
- ISO Setting: Set your camera’s ISO significantly lower than the film’s box speed when using an infrared filter. Experimentation is key.
- Focusing:
- Infrared Focus Shift: Infrared light focuses at a different point than visible light. If your lens has an IR focus mark, focus normally and then adjust the focus ring to align with the IR mark
- Depth of Field: Using a smaller aperture (higher f-number) increases the depth of field, which can help compensate for slight focus inaccuracies.
- Composition:
- Foliage: Green vegetation strongly reflects infrared light and will appear bright white (B&W) or red (color IR).
- Sky: Clear skies absorb infrared light and will appear very dark, creating dramatic contrast with clouds.
- Water: Water absorbs infrared light and will appear dark.
- People: Skin reflects infrared light, giving portraits a unique, often pale or smooth look. Eyes and dark hair tend to appear very dark.
6. Development
- Black and White Infrared Film: Can generally be developed using standard black and white film developers. Development times may need adjustment; consult the film and developer instructions.
- Color IR Film: Requires E-6 slide film processing. Ensure the lab you choose is experienced in processing this type of film and clearly label the film canister as “COLOR INFRARED – E6”.
7. Post-Processing for Digital Infrared Converted Camera Images
- I know this article is about analog infrared photography however if you are using a digital camera converted for infrared photography (which has a fixed IR-passing filter over the sensor), post-processing is crucial for achieving the desired look. This often involves channel swapping in image editing software to create false-color effects or converting to black and white and adjusting contrast.
Some Thoughts for Fun & Success with Infrared
- Experiment: Infrared photography is often unpredictable. Don’t be afraid to try different filters, exposure settings, and subjects.
- Keep Records: Note your settings (ISO, aperture, shutter speed, filter used) for each shot to learn what works best with your film and equipment.
- Research: Look at examples of infrared photography to get inspired and understand the potential of the medium.
In Conclusion: By understanding these suggested guidelines and experimenting with your own equipment, film, filters and vision, you can unlock the fascinating results that come from using infrared photographic film.